Species
specifics: |
The
bullfinch is one of the most
attractive of our native finches,
along with the goldfinch it
holds a special place in the
hearts of British bird breeders,
however there are some things
to consider when starting to
keep and breed bullies.
One of the considerations that
needs to be taken into account
with bullfinches is the feeding,
unlike the other finches, bullies
can suffer from breathing difficulties
, this usualy occures if fed
a wrong kind of diet mainly
one with to much fatty seeds.
In addition the chicks need
livefood for at least the first
week of their lives.
Once experienced is gained with
the "easier" kinds
of British then bullies can
be tried.
These
birds don’t eat as much
seed as the other finches, and
that can be seen by the shape
of their beaks, designed for
picking buds from trees etc,
and if we can provide them with
as many buds as is possible,
such as fruit tree buds, hawthorn,
blackthorn, rose buds, and buds
from bramble bushes etc, will
help gain maximum fitness. |
|
|
|
|
British
Bullfinch Cock |
Bullfinch
Hen |
Northern
or Siberian Bullfinch
Cock |
|
| Distribution:
|
| There
are several species of bullfinch,
from our native one to the
much larger northern race
to others such as the Beavans
bullfinch. |
Size:
|
Bullfinches
are around about the size
of a greenfinch 15cm (6"),
but usually much rounder.
The northern race is larger
still but tend to be on the
long side |
| Feeding: |
They
can be difficult birds to
keep right, and their feeding
habits should be monitored
so they receive a balanced
diet,
my bullfinches get one table
spoon full of seed per day
and no more is given until
the pots are empty, (I don’t
mean a few grains)
all I do is blow the husks
off and replace the pot, this
way they are getting a balanced
diet, not just eating the
favorite seeds.
I must stress to feed your
birds this way is first inconvenient
at first as a careful watch
must be given to make sure
they have enough to eat,
every birds metabolism is
different, and some may eat
more or less than the next
bird and also conditions have
to be kept in mind, for example
if they are housed in flights
etc. |
| Sexing: |
| sexing
bullies is not going to
be a problem for any one
as most people will recognize
the cock bird with his striking
red chest, black head, bib,
wings and tail with a slate
grey back.
The hen is also a handsome
finch; however although
possessing the black head,
wings and tail like the
cock, she lacks his bright
color and is brown elsewhere.
Both sexes have a white
rump which is visible when
the birds are in flight.
Young bullfinches look like
the hen, but lack the black
head etc, until they moult. |
| Color
mutations: |
| You
will find several color variants
of this bullfinch with pastels
being the most common. |
| General
information: |
Bullfinches
are a very rewarding species,
and are a pleasure to own.
Bullfinches can be prolific
breeders and a good one will
generally do well on the show
bench should you be interested
in that side of the hobby.
When they have eggs or chicks
some become nervous, and take
fright at the least thing
whilst others will not move
at all,
I have a hen that lets me
feed her on the nest with
live food from my fingers,
whilst other hens reject eggs
or chicks for the slightest
thing.
A calcium supplement is used
once a week as I have found
hens can be prone to laying
soft shelled eggs. |
| Choosing
Your Bullfinch: |
| A
good bullfinch should be as
large as possible, not long
though, it should be well
balanced and the black head
and bib should be as broad
and clean cut as is possible. |
| Housing:
|
They
can be bred in flights or
in cages, no smaller than
a double breeder, but will
be happiest in a flight, some
people leave there birds out
all winter,
I bring mine inside but this
is purely an individual choice. |
|
Breeding:
|
Bullfinches
usually start to show interest
in breeding around mid to
end of April, and get in full
swing by May/June.
Pairs are kept together during
winter so should have bonded,
but when going into the nesting
quarters, only put one pair
in NEVER put more than one
pair of bullfinches together
in the breeding season, its
ok to house them with another
species, redpoll's for example.
They lay 3-5 eggs, and incubate
for about 12-14 days.
The chicks need as much livefood
as can be given, also wild
seed in the form of chickweed
etc,
if you can persuade your birds
to take egg this will provide
them with vital animal protein.
I find my birds like scrambled
eggs, and it’s convenient
to make. |
| What
the Bullfinch use as nest
also materials used: |
| Bullies
are not good at making nests
lots of times a few twigs
and a few roots do, however
eggs don’t normally
survive such a flimsy nest
so I like to use a home
made shallow nest basket.
This is normally made from
small gauge mesh and molded
into a shallow basket and
twigs woven through, this
does the trick usually.
Twigs that are pliable are
supplied (I find silver
birch twigs ideal), and
coco-nut fibre & sisal
string cut into small lengths
as well is used for nest
building.
Difficulties can arise when
ringing bullfinches, and
this species, in my experience
is the most likely to reject
rings or leave chicks due
to ringing.
A way round this is to cover
the ring with "fishing
float" rubber, this
is said to have the look
and feel of skin so the
chicks won’t be either
thrown out of the nest or
deserted due to ringing. |
Potential
Ailment:
Bullies
are prone to breathing difficulties,
with incorrect feeding contributing
to this, if this should
happen then an anti biotic
called Tylon helps the bird
recover.
Annual
medication:
Like
all the finches they can
be prone to going light
after weaning, so sulphur
based drug are added to
the water until after the
moult,
in the form of Bimodine
or Intredine or the like.
|
Article
© John Reid 2005 |