|
The
Eurasian Blackbird
By Samantha
Goodhead |
Experience
level needed in this species
in there keeping and breeding:
Novice
-
Intermediate - Experienced
Things
to take into account if
you're just starting out
with Blackbirds
|
Blackbirds
are not noisy and so will
not upset the neighbors!
The cock has a beautiful trilling
song which he uses during
the breeding season.
The hen will also quietly
chirp.
Blackbirds do not require
a shelter, just a covered
area in their outdoor flight
where they can be out of the
wind and rain.
I have a section at the back
of the flight which is almost
'boxed-off' i.e. roof, back
and part side covered with
plywood, which ensures a dry,
draught-free area. I also
provide them with a wicker
hanging basket which doubles
up as a nest during the breeding
season and a place to roost
at night all year round and
they do use it.
Blackbirds are relatively
easy to feed and keep, however
they do require a lot of commitment
and on-going daily care,
so please, do not even venture
into these birds if you do
not think you can offer them
this.
You also must consider the
legal aspect of keeping British
Birds and must be willing
to close band any chick bred.
|
|
|
 |
Distribution:
|
Europe
(hence the international name
of: Eurasian Blackbird).
An abundant resident throughout
Britain, with numbers being
swelled in the autumn and winter
by birds from the continent.
Widespread and numerous in most
of Europe, although in majority
of the southern regions of Europe,
Blackbirds are restricted to
hilly or mountainous areas.
In nature, the Blackbird breeds
and winters in woods, farmland,
and gardens, waste ground and
hedges. |
Size:
|
| Approximately
10" or 24-25cm |
| Feeding: |
General
all year-round diet:
I
make up a batch mixture and
freeze it in separate bags,
so that one can be taken out
to thaw overnight.
This method makes feeding
the Blackbirds MUCH simpler.
The mix consists of: 1 part
insectivorous soft food (I
use Prosecto Insectivorous
which I buy from Heaths)
1 part cooked mince
1 part soaked dog biscuits
1 part grated carrot
1 part grated apple
1/4 part grated broccoli
1/4 part grated cheese
To add variety, vary the consistency
of the mixture- sticky, dry,
more of one ingredient etc.
Each day they are give either
a whole apple or pear, which
is thrown onto the floor for
them to pick at.
I also feed a few mealworms
all year round (about 6 each
day for 1 pair).
Clean water must be provided
daily in a green cat litter
tray which will also serve
as a bath.
Breeding
Diet:
The
diet during the breeding season
has to be sufficiently added
to.
Throughout I provide a lot
of protein, which includes
increasing the amount of mealworms
fed to about 10-15 per pair
and increasing the amount
of canned dog food in the
main mixture.
When the birds have chicks
the diet must be altered again:
they require earthworms as
well as mealworms, which should
be mixed with canned dog food
and placed into a tray,
so the birds take all the
protein back to their chicks.
Alternatively mix the earthworms
with soil so the Blackbirds
have to hunt and just add
the mealworms to the extra
dog food.
Winter
Diet:
Once
winter arrives the diet should
be altered again.
They must receive extra dog
food, insectivorous food,
apples and pears.
Also it is a good idea to
freeze all of the following
when in autumn: hawthorn berries,
elderberries, blackberries
and rosehips. Feed ad-lib.
Their food is provided in
an earthenware bowl and green
cat litter trays.
Blackbirds are ground feeders
and so all food must be placed
on the floor of the aviary. |
| Sexing: |
he
normal cock is pure black,
with a brilliant yellow-orange
beak, eye ring, legs and
feet.
The
normal hen dark brown, with
obscure streaking on the
breast, brown beak, eye
ring, legs and feet.
To sex mutations, look at
the beak, eye ring and leg
color.
Color
mutations:
Cinnamon,
Blue, Cream, Albino, Grizzle,
Satinette (red-eyed self
bird which appears visually
as a clear bird i.e. white,
only show melanistic coloring
on the dark under flights
which distinguish the Satinette
as a self bird,
not a clear bird.),
Opal (self-bird characterized
by the inhibition of brown
in it's plumage thus creating
a gray/blue striated melanistic
pigmentation.
The dark, melanistic color
appears in the underside
of the feathers, while the
outer feather have a milky
gray/blue glaze.),
Agate (self-bird, the black
and brown melanin pigment
is diluted so the bird appears
gray, with a characteristic
moustache). |
| General
information: |
The
Blackbird is from the genus
Turdus which includes as thrush-like
birds such as the Song and
Mistle Thrush, Fieldfare,
Redwing and Ring Ouzel.
All are small to medium-sized
singing birds (i.e. songbirds)
noted for a clear melodious
song, usually having brownish
upper plumage and a spotted
breast.
They have a stocky body, straight
bill and upright posture.
They often hop on ground when
foraging. Eggs are always
blue speckled |
| Choosing
breeding stock: |
Birds
should be alert, healthy,
fit, flying, have a clean
vent, bright-eyed, feel substantial
when handled and the breast
bone should not be sharp.
It does not matter if a few
tail feathers are broken or
a few feathers above the beak
are missing as this is due
to general wear-and tear i.e.
fighting between pairs (completely
normal-
they all fight even if they
have bonded and reared chicks)
or bumps and scratches from
branches in the aviary, which
will cause ragged feathers.
As Blackbirds are British
Birds they must be kept under
the laws issued by the government
ie. DEFRA.
All birds bought should be
captive bred, this will be
noticeable by the presence
of a closed band on the bird's
leg which will display the
bird's individual identification
number,
year of hatch and the initials
of the organization the bird
is registered with i.e. BBC
(British Bird Society) or
DEFRA (Department for Environment
Food and Rural Affairs).
The breeder may also give
you the bird's 'papers', which
are a sort of ID.
Do not buy birds which are
not closed banded as these
may well have been wild caught.
It is illegal to keep wild
caught birds!
Un-banded chicks (for what
ever reason e.g. band put
on too late so it didn't fit,
or too early so fell off etc.)
cannot be sold, only given
away to fellow British Bird
keepers. |
| Housing:
|
I
have 1 proven breeding pair
which are housed in an outdoor
aviary measuring approximately
8' long x 3' wide x 6' tall.
This is the minimum size and
bigger is obviously better.
If you can afford to build
a larger aviary then please
do, as your Blackbirds will
definitely thank you for the
increased flight room.
As
I said above, Blackbirds do
not require a shelter, just
a covered area where they
can be out of the wind and
rain.
My covered area measures spans
the width of the flight and
extends halfway down the back,
the flight is roofed halfway
and the sides are protected
by 2' square panels fitted
close to the back.
Their nest sits in the left-hand
corner of this area.
The nest is left in all year
round so they can breed and
roost in it.
For perching, I use conifer
branches in varying thicknesses-
from the diameter of my little
finger to the span of my wrist.
To add a woodland feel and
seclusion I place conifer
foliage and branches all over
the mesh.
The floor is covered by a
deep layer of bark chippings,
as they love to dig.
To ease cleaning, place a
sheet of newspaper under main
perches to catch droppings,
cover with bark chippings
and replace each week.
Their food is provided in
an earthenware bowl and green
cat litter trays, the latter
which is also used for the
drinking/bathing water (Blackbirds
love to bathe!). |
Mesh:
I
use 1/2" x 1/2"
19 gage, galvanized welded
wire mesh, which is very small
and thus keep out majority
of predators and pests.
|
Breeding:
The
breeding season begins at
the end of March/beginning
of April.
To
win his mate, the cock will
break out into chorus at this
time of the year; he will
hop, display and fly around
trying to impress his mate.
During this time his (as are
her) hormones are extremely
strong and surging through
his body, so it is not unlikely
that he will chase her around
the aviary and occasionally
attack her.
It is also not unheard of
for the hen to chase the cock
when she begins to build her
nest.
When they have bonded the
singing will not cease and
will last throughout the season.
The hen will begin to franticly
pick up nesting material.
The cock may help with the
nest building but it is primarily
the hen's job.
After 1-2 weeks of nest building
(remember to keep offering
material) she will disappear
into her nest and very soon
4-6 eggs will arrive. Incubation
lasts 12-14 days and is solely
the hen’s job;
the cock will even feed the
hen in the nest so she does
not have to leave her eggs.
Once you have spotted eggs,
leave well alone.
Do not enter the flight while
they are incubating, as any
disturbance at all will cause
them to abandon their eggs.
The young grow very quickly
and will fledge after 12-14
days. It's is OK to check
on the chicks once daily,
but no more frequently as
the pair may desert their
chicks if they are disturbed
too much.
They must be close banded
at day 4-5. Occasionally the
young will emerge from the
nest at 10-12 days old and
sit on the floor.
It is OK to leave them there
as their parents will look
after them. Chicks are usually
independent at 4-6 weeks old.
|
| What
the species use as nest also
materials used: |
I
provide them with a wicker
hanging basket (the ones
you put plants in), which
is hung 10" from the
roof of the aviary,
placed firmly and solidly
in a corner so it will not
move and upset the birds
(which will either cause
them to not nest at all
or abandon).
For
nesting material, they require:
hay, coconut fiber, moss,
little twigs, grass (just
pull off some long grass
and throw it in the aviary
they will pick it up themselves).
A tray of mud (usual garden
varieties) must be provided
and regularly dampened down
with water, so that it is
constantly sticky.
They NEED this to build
their nest.
Place the nesting material
on the floor of the aviary
in different locations so
that they have to find their
material ...and therefore
use their brains!
Potential
Ailment:
Intestinal
worms, lice and mites.
Annual
medication:
Expel
wormer every 4 months, anti-lice
and mite spray as and when
required.
|
Article
© Samantha Goodhead 2003-2004
If
you would like to write a species
article please use the link below!
CLICK
HERE |
|
|
to enlarge image
